Fatima and Cobblestone Sidewalks

It is the morning of our last full day here in Portugal and what a fantastic week it has been! In some ways it feels like we have been here for months when we look back on all that we did and gauge our deep knowledge for the public transit maps! 

We have become more sure-footed too - literally...I am not sure if I mentioned this in an earlier post, but all the sidewalks (and many streets) here are made of cobblestone. That  material combined with hills makes for each walking around each day a strength exercise. Our apartment is half way up a steep hill that is all cobblestone and we have found that whenever we want to get somewhere we have to traverse up and down hills that are the little sisters of San Francisco. At first we would have to take breaks, but now our ankles and quads have built up the stability and strength necessary, so hills no longer daunt us. We think this whole country is decked out with cobblestone because when we arrived in Fatima yesterday the sidewalks there looked the same! Gah! 

Ah, Fatima, the site of the 1917 miracle where the Virgin Mother appeared to 3 children in the hills over the course of several months told them 3 secrets - Another great war was coming, a pope will be assassinated and described the vision of hell. Nan and I wanted to go here during our trip since we were so close to this Catholic miracle.

We took the bus to Fatima, since that it was everyone recommended and it was pretty easy and comfortable. It was about a 90 minute ride on a nice coach bus. It was filled with many old ladies and us :-) We booked tickets to be there for 4 hours. We arrived just before 11am and made it into the church to watch the beginning of mass. Our guides has told us it was an English mass, but it was actually in Portuguese, so we stayed for a few minutes and left. We took the time to walk around the Basilica that was erected in the early 1950's and looked around the sanctuary. They also have an eternal flame, where one can by wax candles or body parts and throw them into the flame, along with a prayer to help heal that persons body part. (James really got a kick out of this). The body parts, to include organs, are there so that you can focus prayer around a certain person and part and pray for their healing. 

The Basilica grounds are where the kids once saw the vision of Mary. The only tree around that they kept was the Oak tree under which they stood during these meetings with Mary. There is also a sanctuary, monuments, a piece of the Berlin wall and a library and bookstore. When entering these grounds, some people choose to walk in on their knees as an act of sorrow for their sins. While we did not partake, we did see a few people doing just that. The crowd on Oct 13th is supposed to surpass 80,000 people as it does every year with people traveling to this site. We thought that the days leading up to it would be crowded, but surprisingly it was not bad. We also thought there would be more structure and formality around the site, but there were just tourists flowing everywhere.

After touring the church we walked around the small town to grab lunch before heading back on the bus. All the stores were selling candles and wax body parts to take back into the flame, rosary's and I love Fatima shirts. I think the town totally survives on this being a miracles site for the church.

I am unable to tell you about scenery along the route on the ride up and back along the country, as I napped both ways. We then went to a wine bar in Barrio-alto and on our walk home stumbled upon this esplanade with a view to watch the sunset! For once we were happy to walk up a hill to find this small park serving $2 SuperBocks (beer) and view that could not be beat. We hung out there for a while to people watch and relax. 

Our intent for dinner was to try out an Anthony Bordain recommended restaurant - Caninho Do Avillez, but unfortunately it was booked solid for the next few days - go figure. We found another recommended restaurant - Charcutaria Lisoa - and I had yummy grilled octopus! 

Also, I would be remiss if I did not mention our food from the prior night, we went to A Pescaria, on he water near our metro station. It was to die for seafood. You know seafood is good when they good fish with the head and bones in! While there, learned a new trick from Jim on how to take out the fish bones in one swoop. James and I split a fish and prawn platter that was so yummy and the chef came out a few time to talk with us about the dishes and her background. She was even asked to come to DC to open an Portuguese restaurant, but turned it down. This is a whole in the wall place, but they know how to serve great seafood!

On our last day, we are going to check out a few museums, get in some souvenir shopping and find a great place for our last meal!